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Jacki Moffa

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Would you attempt to recreate a gown that hasn't been made in 350 years? It sounds CRAZY! But after years of lusting after the "Woman Walking in the Country" fashion plate from the 1680's, I finally girded my loins and decided to tackle this mysterious mantua! While we do have several extant mantuas left, they are both from about 10-20 years AFTER this fashion plate was created. And much like other centuries, a lot can change in construction in 20 years. In this video, I will attempt to reverse-engineer this gown using the later-period style, my knowledge of how this gown developed, and some good old-fashioned gumption. One of the reasons people don't recreate from this era is lack of resources and knowledge--so I wanted to show my though process, my logic, and my construction. The fails as well as the wins. And while no, we don't actually know how this gown was cut and pleated (because they were taken apart and changed into other things), we can make some intelligent assumptions. And come out with a result that, while not perfect, is a fairly good representation of the fashion plate! Resources: I used "The Cut of Women's Clothes" by Norah Waugh for construction tips and the original--later--pattern This gown is based on one of the fashion plates from Recueil des modes de la cour de France, which dates between 1670-1693 CONTENT NOTE: some of these plates reflect the colonialist sentiments of the time and depict both POC in positions of servitude as well as some very appropriative costumes of other cultures. Please use caution when looking through these if you are sensitive to those topics. My inspiration plate is number 51, and does not reflect any of these topics. You can find the collection here: https://collections.lacma.org/node/205568 Making my green, later period mantua: https://youtu.be/LkWBOX7uzBE Making my 1640s-1660's Pizza Bodies: https://youtu.be/EhFcM5VA5fU Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat: https://www.zapsplat.com/ Chapters: 00:00 Making a 1680's mantua 00:47 Cutting out the petticoat 02:45 How the heck is this mantua made? 04:36 Studying the fashion plate 05:07 Drafting the mantua 06:54 Assembling 08:48 Pleating 11:55 Facing and fit checks 14:04 Finishing the petticoat 17:18 Sleevils and finishing touches 21:30 The reveal
Making a 1680's Mantua: The Mysterious Gown Nobody's Ever Made!
Can I make an entire Edwardian corset in a single day? Let's find out! This is inspired by the Walkaway Dress Challenge from Stephanie Canada, except instead of making a dress in a single afternoon, I'm attempting something much more intricate and complicated: an Edwardian riding corset, also referred to as a waspie. This is an under-bust corset from a free pattern from Ora Lin Patterns. This is (arguably) a crazy thing to attempt, but hey, panic sewing an entire outfit the day before an event is DEFINITELY on brand (and not just for me...🤣) I'm excited to share this process with you! While this is technically a wearable mockup, I wanted a fun stripey corset to wear for a bard costume during a recent venture out to my local Renaissance Faire! It was a lot of work but the results (whether I finished in one day or not...) are great! Resources: The Pattern: https://ko-fi.com/s/325530224c Striped fabric and cotton canvas from www.fabricwholesaledirect.com Cotton sheeting from www.dharmatrading.com Black cotton twill tape from www.wawak.com Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat: https://www.zapsplat.com/ Chapters: 00:00 Can I finish a corset in one day? 00:24 Pattern and Rules 01:41 Cutting out 03:05 Hurdle #1 cleared 04:33 Hurdle #2 05:38 Eyelets 06:38 Assembling 08:02 2/3 mark 09:25 Hurdle #3 11:46 Adding fashion fabric 14:12 The Morning After 15:30 The Reveal
Can I Finish a Corset in One Day? Walkaway Corset Challenge! 😱
Have you ever put on a shirt after 2 washes to find a hole in it? Do you procrastinate your mending pile, or worse--toss things that need fixing and buy a new one, instead? You're not alone. Join me as I tackle my giant mending pile using historical techniques! We'll check each project off the list as we tackle them one by one in an effort to be more pragmatic and rational. Because there is no reason--NO REASON--you should throw something away because it needs to be mended, or chuck a t-shirt into a mending pile and leave it there for ten years because you can't be bothered to run it through your machine. Don't be like me 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Resources: Here are the videos related to the garments I fix in this video! Adjustable Victorian Walking Skirt: https://youtu.be/VkGN_9H2N78 Beatlejuice Cosplay: https://youtu.be/3F1adn2bW7M The Lobster Gown: https://youtu.be/yILxJ31zPRQ Sandwich Stitch: https://youtu.be/PsTIXxMAag0 1640's Pizza Stays: https://youtu.be/EhFcM5VA5fU Altering Stays: https://youtu.be/SJnUFXFGrig Historical Weird Barbie: https://youtu.be/eI-Y1fsBQLc Witchy Victorian Undergarments: https://youtu.be/dFpynFoysPA Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/ Chapters: 00:00 Mending mayhem! 00:56 Sottana hem fix 02:42 1830's Weird Barbie sleeves 04:57 Beatlejuice fly insertion 07:21 Quick fixes 14:06 Altering the Pizza Stays 18:07 Polka dot remnant dress
Mending Mayhem: Repairing a Wardrobe using Historical Techniques!
Let's make the basic undergarment for a fashionable masculine gentleman of the 1660's! Never before seen on YouTube, this tutorial will walk you step by step through how to make one of these basic garments--from drafting the shirt from YOUR measurements, to the sewing and assembly. And, of course, because it's the 1660's and we're over the top even in our most basic of underthings--decorating it with frills and ribbons and lace! Hey, you wanted to be fashionable, right? These garments were typically made out of pristine white linen and were made to be seen. They feature a high collar, cuffs, and detachable lace ruffs at the elbows and wrists. While you can make this garment as basic or as frilly as you want, this definitely was an era of power dressing where you really wanted to lay it on thick. This is one of the most fun eras of clothing for masculine wear, and I'm SO excited to be dipping my toes into it! This is the beginning of my 17th century Baroque Peacock costume. We'll be building it from the skin out. Resources: Cotton voile from: https://fabricwholesaledirect.com/ Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/ Chapters: 00:00 Making a 166's Shirt 00:36 Drafting the shirt 02:23 Materials and cutting 03:54 Gussets of DOOOOM 05:53 Constructing the body 10:00 Finishing the neckline & sleeves 13:34 Houston, we have problem... 15:53 Time for trimming! 18:48 The reveal
How to Make a 17th Century Shirt | Baroque Menswear Tutorial
What's better than an 1890's outfit? An 1890's outfit with a FABULOUS waistcoat! These gorgeous, tailored pieces are a quintessential part of the 1890's wardrobe, and there's no better way to level up your Victorian wardrobe than by adding one to your repertoire! In this video, I'll go through the steps of making a waistcoat using Black Snail's 1890's Waistcoat pattern. Tailoring is a skill that, like corsets, needs to be physically done to acquire, and I'm certainly still in the thick of the learning curve. But what is a Fantastical Follies video without...a little chaos? 🙃 I'll walk you through some of the more confusing parts, and even if I get a little snarky, it'll all turn out right in the end. I hope you enjoy this process! I made this Victorian waistcoat to attend a Victorian weekend, and it totally made the outfit. This whole look has taken me a good year to get to on and off, and now that it's complete, I feel so satisfied and happy with the results! Also...it's purple. 💜 Resources: Purple silk from: https://www.silkbaron.com/ Pattern from: https://blacksnailpatterns.com/ How I made the purple walking skirt: https://youtu.be/i1jHfoEo0aI How I made the shirtwaist with convertible sleeves: https://youtu.be/tbJa1PYY2fM Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/ Chapters: 00:00 Making an 1890's Waistcoat 00:30 Magic mockup 04:36 Initial assembly 06:31 The snarktastic welt incident 09:36 Interfacing and arranging the guts 14:08 The collar saga 16:18 Assembling the sides FINALLY 19:58 Finishing touches 23:15 The Reveal
Making an 1890's Waistcoat to Level Up My Victorian Wardrobe!
Let's take a standard 1890's walking skirt and make it adjustable! Everyone says that the 1890's are perfect for historybounding. But there is a HUGE design flaw that could seriously prevent you from living your best historybounding life: your waist fully corseted =/= your waist uncorseted. This is my savvy solution: cutting apart an existing, tried-and-true 1890's walking skirt pattern (Scroop's Fantail Skirt) and adding some panels...and a secret stretchy weapon to make this walking skirt fabulous and versatile. It maintains the smooth, body-hugging look in the front to give you that quintessential 1890's silhouette. The best part of this technique? It lets you add giant pockets! This is a very easy skirt hack that can be applied to virtually any skirt pattern you already own--walking skirts and whatever else you might like to apply it to! Resources: The pattern I used: https://www.scrooppatterns.com/ Black handkerchief linen from https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/ (no longer available) If you want more detail into how this pattern is constructed, here is my video on the periwinkle non-adjustable version (but you can be durn sure I'm altering this baby ASAP!) : https://youtu.be/i1jHfoEo0aI If you're interested in my striped shirtwaist, I made a cream version with convertible sleeves in this video: https://youtu.be/tbJa1PYY2fM Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/ Chapters: 00:00 Making an 1890's Adjustable Walking Skirt! 00:58 Designing the plackets 02:08 Attaching pockets to plackets 06:15 Adding elastic for adjustability 10:28 Finishing touches 13:26 The reveal
Making an 1890's ADJUSTABLE Walking Skirt for ~Ultimate Versatility~
You went through all that effort to make a pair of stays or a corset--and they still don't fit! What now? In this video, I will show you in detail some ways to alter your existing stays if the fit isn't what you want. It can be exceptionally simple to do--and depending on how much grace your past self gave you, can be a fast and easy way to upgrade something that would otherwise gather dust in your mending pile. I'll show you how to take apart your stays (or corsets, this method works for those, too!) and modify the fit. I'll also give you step-by-step instructions on how to add a panel in case you need to add a LOT of space to your stays. Start to finish, this only took me about four days to complete--while working on other (much larger) projects in the process! So don't be intimidated--with this video and a little patience, you can achieve the comfort and look you want in your stays. Because you deserve it! Resources: The stays pattern: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1220793192/autumn-stays-sewing-pattern-pack?click_key=8290deb6dd76f106cae825c8528d45a3051bb539%3A1220793192&click_sum=2849d132&external=1&rec_type=ss&ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-1&sts=1 (Sorry it's so long!) How to redraw boning channels: https://youtu.be/OsuOf6mRCUk Chapters: 00:00 How to Alter Stays for a Perfect Fit! 01:27 Step 1: Analyzing what you've got 04:06 Initial alterations 05:32 Adding an extra panel 11:29 Fixing the strap length 14:26 Final tips 16:01 The Reveal Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/
How to Alter Stays & Corsets that Don't Fit! (Beginner Friendly!)
It's COLD outside, so let's brighten things up with a fast, easy 18th century cloak! These cloaks were ubiquitous in the 18th and 19th centuries, and are a great way to give your historical makes a warm, fashionable upgrade without spending a lot of time, effort, or money. In this video, I will walk you step-by-step through how to make this gorgeous 18th century cloak. First, we'll draft the pattern--and it's a very easy, beginner-friendly thing to draft--and then make the cloak, which took only a couple of days to complete! This is truly a fast and fabulous make. I love this cloak, and have gotten a lot of wear out of it since I made it last fall! It's become a staple in my historical wardrobe, and was a really awesome instant-gratification project to work on while I was buried in lobsters. Everyone needs a little red cloak in their arsenal to brighten up those drab winter days 🙃☃️ Chapters: 00:00 Drafting a gorgeous 18th century red cloak! 00:51 Drafting the pattern 02:34 Drafting the hood 03:25 Materials 05:31 Assembling the cloak 07:55 Fan-pleating the hood 09:48 Attaching the hood 12:37 The Reveal 13:55 Oo-de-lally! Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/
Drafting a GORGEOUS 18th Century Cloak for Peak Winter Vibes! ❄
Let's make a camicia--the super voluminous, super ruffly garment worn during the Italian Renaissance! The camicia, or shirt, is the base garment worn by all genders, and the best place to start when sewing your new Italian Renaissance look! The best part? It's a simple garment made of squares and rectangles, which requires no pattern! Look extra without extra work! In this video, I'll walk you step-by-step through how to make a basic camicia with self ruffles. And, in typical Fantastical Follies fashion, make ALL the mistakest 😂😳 It's a bumpy, chaotic ride, but the finished product is fantastic, and hey--at least I made the mistakes, so now you don't have to! Resources: 3.7 oz handkerchief linen (in optic white) from: https://fabrics-store.com/linen-fabric Tournameny of Defense: https://www.tournamentofdefense.com/ Chapters: 00:00 How to Make a Renaissance Camicia! 0:48 Materials 03:52 Sleeves 04:36 Adding gussets 06:56 Camicia quirks 10:03 Tackling the neckline 11:03 The Fail 13:20 Cutting guide 14:56 The Reveal Socials: Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming/ Follow me on TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: https://ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies Sound effects by Zapsplat https://www.zapsplat.com/
How to Make a Ruffly Renaissance Camicia! (Beginner Friendly!)
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